Woodburning Stove Tips


Tips and Hints for your Stove

The saying goes……. ‘You can gauge the marital prospects of a man by the way he stacks wood!’

'Weak and insecure men (too timid to get far) build a low stack arranged by log size — heavy logs on the bottom, little stuff on top. The socially or politically ambitious (they're all crooks) stack high and show-offish with big logs on top. The lazy (who never will amount to nothin') leave their wood in a heap or start a pile but never finish. And the sly and mercenary (watch yer virtue and yer pocketbook) stack ground-fall tree limbs and apple tree prunings in with the wood. If you want to keep your psyche to yourself, stack as the sticks come out of the pile'. Courtesy of Mother Earth News

TIPS ON STACKING YOUR WOOD

1) Ensure that the stack location is several feet away from your home's foundation, as well as any decks or sheds because of termites and bugs. Consider any drainage issues that your location may have, to prevent moisture build up after a heavy rain or snowfall. Make sure you have picked a spot with plenty of sunlight, this will help to keep your wood dry.

2) Make sure you have wood ends, like book ends to prevent rolling.

3) Stack bark side up and allow air to flow through the stack.

4) Cover and secure the top with a tarpaulin or sheet of plastic, black is preferable as it will absorb heat and encourage evaporation. Don't cover the whole stack as it will sweat.

WHAT DOES ‘MULTI-FUEL’ MEAN?

'Multi-Fuel’ does not mean you can burn ‘solid mineral’ fuel and wood together. In fact, this can damage your stove and will not allow the fire to perform correctly. It means the stove is designed to burn both fuels but separately not mixed.

Wood burns best on a bed of ash and it is therefore only necessary to remove surplus ash from on top of the grate occasionally. Burn only dry, well-seasoned wood, which should have been cut, split and stacked for at least 12 months, with free air movement around the sides of the stack to enable it to dry out. Burning wet or unseasoned wood will create tar deposits in the stove and the chimney and will not produce a satisfactory heat output.

Solid mineral fuel burns with-out an ash bed therefore always de-ash before refueling and do not let the ash level reach the underside of the grate bars. Solid mineral fuel produces ash, which if allowed to build-up will eventually cause the fire to die. With some solid mineral fuels, a residue of burnt fuel or clinker will accumulate on the grate, allow the fire to go out periodically to remove this.

Never burn solid mineral fuels on a woodburning only stove.

Depending on your stove make and model you usually find that there are different settings for each fuel and this will affect the performance of the stove, the glass staying clean and the tertiary burn working effectively.

 STOVE CHECKLIST

  • Get your chimneys swept every year by a NACS chimney sweep.
  • Stove door rope seals need to be replaced every year if not every other year. This ensures maximum efficiency, correct fuel consumption and keeps the glass clean. We offer a full door reconditioning service or can supply you the spares to do it yourself. 
  • Vacuum out the fire box and ash pan at the end of the burn season, usually around June/July. Otherwise, moisture mixes with the ash and causes erosion. (Only needs to be done once a year!)
  • Wood ash is fantastic for flower beds and vegetable patches.
  • Only burn dry seasoned logs this prevents tar build up within the stove and the chimney.
  • Check your carbon monoxide detector regularly. If you don't have one buy one. Carbon monoxide is a silent killer. We can supply you with one, Building Regulations now stipulate every solid fuel appliance fitted should have one in the same room.
  • HAVE YOU ORDERED YOUR WOOD YET? NOW IS THE TIME TO GET IT STACKED AND DRIED. We supply bagged kiln dried wood & coal, contact us for prices.